The 89 Cherokee

Saturday, 10/8/11:
Bought it for 1900 under the impression that it was “rust free”
Drove it 45mi home.
Came with 31s on ugly aluminum rims. Will be selling rims and keeping tires.
Has 96 doors on it, bedlined bottom, was originally black and the spraypaint is pealing…
Warranty manual says it came from Georgia in 88 with 92 miles on it…

Sunday 10/9/11:
Pulled Buzzer, put on steering stabilizer, oil pressure sender, oxygen sensor (old one was missing 1″ of ceramic), fixed “pcv”. Found a reman sticker on engine.
Pulled carpet, found rust.

Monday 10/10/11:
Cut out rust, tried welding in new piece to find out that my welder just burns through. Will have to pay someone.
Put in new battery and terminals. $110.
Drove it some more, Decided rear brakes are SHOT.
If youre wondering about pulling the carpet, yes it is loud as hell. Sounds like you have windows open or the hatch is open. But, Id gladly take that to find rust early and keep it from coming back.

Tuesday 10/11/11:
All day project.

Pulled radiator out of green jeep, put HO thermostat housing on renix. Used HO heater lines on renix.
Hooked up trans cooler, AFTER in-radiator “cooler”.
FYI: A straight piece of alu. “fuel injection line” will work in here, so you can run a line to cooler…

Bolted radiator in, header panel not in yet. Started filling radiator and the fricking thermostat housing gasket leaks. Grr.

Wednesday 10/12/11:
Got new thermostat gasket, installed with RTV
Finished putting header panel back on.
Changed Oil. (6.5 qts)
Removed airbox restriction.
Drove it. (brakes still suck)

Lost some transmission fluid, will add tomorrow…
Friends dad is going to look at my rear brakes tomorrow, It sounds almost like the shoes are loose and bouncing/scraping around in there..

Also got my build sheet today:

*Q7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats
ALR ST Value Group
APAS Monotone Paint
AWHA Power Equipment Group
BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
BKPS 10×2.5 Rear Drum Brakes
CACP Low Back Bucket Seats
CDBS Reclining Front Seats
CKBS Floor Carpet
CKNP Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTP Cargo Tie Down Loops
CKVS MOPAR Third Row Cargo Bins w/Table
CLES Front & Rear Floor Mats
CSAS Spare Tire Cover
CSCS Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGSS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
DHSS Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever
DJHS 230MM Front Axle
DMDS 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
DRJS 175MM Rear Axle
EAAC All Engines
GACS Tinted Glass Windows
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GECS Front Left Side Sliding Window
GEDS Tinted Rr Drs/Qtr/Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNBS Driver Side Illuminated Sun Visor
GRBP Left Mirror
GSBP Right Convex Mirror
GTBS Power Heated Mirrors
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
HAAA Air Conditioning
HGAS Hood Insulation
JAAS Instrument Panel
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JBES Instr. Panel Diamond Weave Bezel
JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer
JGBS Digital Clock
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAS Cigar Lighter
JKBS Inst Panel Mounted Hood Release
JPAP Power Windows
JPBP Power Locks
LAFS Key in Ign/Seat Belt Warning Buzzer
LAJS Headlamps On Warning Chimes
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LBDS Ash Tray Lamp
LBES Cigar Lighter
LCDS Map/Dome Reading Lamps
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LDHS U/Hood, Removable/Rechargeable Lamp
LHDS Headlamp Off Time Delay
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
LNJA Fog Lamps
MB3S Body Color/Bright Front Fascia
MB7S Bright Rear Bumper w/Accent Color
MCAS Front Bumper Guards
MCBS Rear Bumper Guards
MDA Front License Plate Bracket
MFMS Black/Bright Grille
MHBS Bright Windshield Moldings
MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert
MMGS Belt Moldings
MTAS Rear Fascia Skid Plate Applique
MWAS Roof Rack
NAAS Federal Emissions
NBKS EVAP Control System
NDAS Catalytic Converter
NFAS 20 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHMA Speed Control
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RAFA AM/FM Cassette Radio
RCDP 4 Speakers
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCGS Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers
SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers
SUA Tilt Steering Column
TAAC All Tires
TBCS Compact Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TMWA P215/75R15 OWL All Terrain Tires
WJMS 15X7.0 Chrome Wheels
XFAS -35F Protection Anti-Freeze
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Our records indicate that the following recall campaign(s) have not been
performed by an authorized dealer:

RECALL: 733
DESCRIPTION: BRAKE PEDAL SHIFT INTERLOCK
TYPE: WARRANTY
DATE ISSUED: 09/08/1997
STATUS: INCOMPLETE

We suggest that you contact your local authorized dealer to make
arrangements for an inspection and, if necessary, corrective action at
no charge to you.

Please take a copy of this message with you at the time of service to
aid the process.

Although not required, it is recommended to bring a copy of the recall
notification with you to your dealer’s service department when you bring
your vehicle in for this service.

Thanks again for your email, have a great day.

Sincerely,

Alex

Customer Service Representative
Jeep Customer Assistance Center

Wednesday 10/12/11 Continued:
Drove it after putting in “New” Radiator. Still dont have an overflow bottle mounted, using a gatorade bottle.
Temp stays Right above 210 no matter what… I dont get it. Tstat is new. 50/50 coolant mix, etc. Let it idle for about 20 mins.
How long does an open system take to “burp”? Do I still have to pull the temp sender at the back of head like the closed system?
Also has typical Renix “low oil pressure” at idle. Around 40+ psi driving though.

Thursday 10/13/11:
Bled a little air out of the cooling system, I think theres still more trapped. Still running at 210 no matter what…
Changed trans fluid, I think it shifts a little better now.
Drove it. Kinda funny watching the oil pressure gauge, when it locks up at 45 it drops from 40+ psi to ~25.

Got rear brakes looked at. Drivers side was way out of adjustment, passengers side needed springs and an adjuster kit. Had parts floating around in the bottom of the drum.

Also, I have super slow wipers…

Cold Start:

It has a pretty good tick when its cold, but when it warms up it goes away.

10/23/11:
236651 mi:
Fuel filter, spark plugs, miss after test drive, refused to start after. Cleaned coil contacts, reinstalled and it started. Did not test drive.
~236450 mi: Oil change.

10/31/11
Found a disconnected line on that stupid “vacuum block”, put the old autolites in it just for the hell of it, drove it. Still missing, was idling at 600rpm today. I think my TPS Is shot, if I tested correctly it is reading full throttle at idle.
The EGR valve works, if you pull the plunger back it instantly dies. One of these days I need to pull all the vacuum lines and redo them.
Going back to work tomorrow, so I can dump more money into it…

Tire chirp at 15mph surprised me…

11-07-2011
I put a new Napa/Echlin TPS on it, adjusted to .85 (input was exactly 5v) and changed the coil ICM for different ones.

Still missing at idle and is pissing me off… Runs perfect off idle, see youtube comparison (1000rpm vs 700).
I have a Whistling vacuum leak from 35-45mph, it goes away after lockup. My no1 injector oring (bottom) leaks pretty good so Im thinking thats what it is.
15mpg to work and back, 5 stop lights and 35-55-35-30 mph zones.

11/8/11
Couple days ago I put the rear seat out of my 97 in… Its not totally done yet, I need to make some kind of pin for the drivers side. The 97 uses bolts on both sides, the 89 uses a bolt on the passengers side and a pin on the drivers.

My CC doesnt work, and I see that it is missing a vacuum line on the actuator. Im kinda afraid to hook it up, thinking maybe its unhooked for a reason…

12/4/11
Not much to update.
Put in the 19lb injectors and almost lit the jeep on fire, havent gotten any MPG numbers yet. Still has the miss, I still hear a vacuum leak somewhere but am not sure where.

Getting front brake pads, ujoints and motor mounts soon:

Also getting OFA orings, and a SAE nipple, as soon as I figure out the part numbers.

I dont remember If Ive posted this earlier, but these are the plans. Its my DD, and pry wont see much wheeling at all.
Axles: 30 and 29sp 8.25 out of the 97. Or 30/8.25 out of a 97+ 4banger if I can find them.
Tcase: 242 if I can find one in 21sp.
Lift: 2-3″
Exhaust: Glasspack
Some kind of opened up intake.
Tires: 31″
Fenders cut like my old jeep:

Misc: Ignition box, A pillar gauge pod, Trans temp and vacuum gauge, Bedlined floors, Bedlined rear quarters, lower quarter guards, and more…

1/1/12
238429 Mi
Oil Change
Oil Filter Adapter Orings
Drivers side Ujoint
Front Brake Pads
Front flex lines
Motor mounts

97+ Jeep Cherokee (4.0L) High Idle Switch

Have OBA, A winch, or would just like a higher idle for other purposes? Here is the mod for you.
The “Extended Idle” switch was an option on the police issue Cherokees. It is said to be there to kick up alternator output for high demand things such as lights and AC, and to keep the cooling system running a little quicker.

This mod is very simple, and if you have your stuff together it will only take about half an hour.
This Writeup will not have many pictures, since many people will have different places to put their switches.

Required tools: Electrical tape, Philips Screwdriver, Wiretap Connector, Wire, Switch, Dremel or something to cut the Dash.
1: Pull the first plug on the ECU, it is the black one, furthest to the left.

2: Find Pin A12. It is the 2nd row down, on the left. It should be a gray wire, if you have a 97.

3: Cut the electrical tape wrapping and get the gray A12 wire by itself.

4: Use your wiretap connector to splice in your wire:

5: Run your wire into the passenger compartment. There is a hole that the hood release cable comes out of. This is what I used.

6: Pull your wire into the jeep and decide where you want your switch. I decided to mount mine along with the other switches in the dash.

7: Cut your panel where you want the switch. Be sure to get the dimensions correct, you dont want a big ugly hole. Dremel works good for this, but be careful.

7: Hook the wire from the ECU to one side of your switch.

8: Hook the other side of your switch to a ground source. I used a wire to the Cigarette lighter ground.

9: Insert switch, Put Dash back together.

10: Test it out. Start your jeep and flip the switch. Your idle should increase to ~1000 RPM and stay there until the switch is turned back off.

 

Renix Era Dana 30 Vacuum Disconnect Mod

I got tired of not having reliable 4wd in my old jeep, so I decided to do this mod. It worked well for the time I had it, and I never noticed a difference in ride or MPG.
It is very easy to do and it takes an hour or less if you know what youre doing.

The only tools required are an 11mm socket, a jack, some gasket maker, gear oil, and something to get the c-clips on/off.
Brake cleaner/Degreaser is optional, but recommended.

Jack up the passengers side and locate your CAD assembly. It is the weird looking piece on the passenger side axle tube with three vacuum lines running to it. Yours (hopefully) wont be as dirty.

Next step is to put a catch can underneath it, get your 11mm wrench/ratchet/whatever and loosen the bottom two bolts a few turns. Allow all of the gear oil to run out (a couple ounces). You can now remove all four bolts.

Once you have the disconnect assembly off, clean it up with your cleaner/degreaser and get something to remove the C-clip.  Be careful as it WILL go flying and be hard to find.

Move the shift fork over past where the clip usually rides and then reinstall the clip. Your shift fork is now in the “locked” position.

For the next step, go back out to your jeep. You will need to move the locking collar over into the “locked” position. You may have to rotate the tire to get the splines to line up. You will know you have it if the driveshaft spins when you rotate the passengers side tire.

Clean the mating surfaces of the shift motor and axle disconnect area. Use  a thin bead of RTV or gasket maker of your choice.

Install the shift motor being sure the fork lines up with the collar. Tighten the 4 bolts in a criss-cross or hex pattern a little at a time being sure not to tighten them too much and strip the holes out.

You are done. Check your gear oil before your first ride, you may need to add a couple ounces since some was lost when the CAD assembly was taken off.

Note: pictures where taken from Dodger889′s writeup on Jeepforum.com

Jeep 4.0L Valve Cover Gasket Replacement and Cleaning

1: Gather your tools:
You will need an 11m Socket/Wrench, Ratchet, and your VC Gasket.
You may need a screwdriver and small hammer.
Optional: Paint, Masking Tape, Newspaper, 1/4″ socket.

2: Begin removing your Valve Cover bolts, there are about 20 along the perimeter. The rear bolt is a PITA and will be the hardest part.

3: Remove the cover, I had to tilt mine to the left to get it out of there. You may need to use a screwdriver to carefully pry up on the front of the cover, a more “violent” method is to smack the side of the cover with a hammer.

4: This is a good time to clean the inside of the valve cover, I used brake cleaner (almost a whole can) and a rag to clean it. It is also a good time to remove the CCV orifices and clean them. Mine were full of sludge. (Requires 1/4″ socket)

5: If you are not painting, skip to step 11.

6: Degrease outside of valve cover. I used brake cleaner again. Wipe down with a rag.

7: Wash valve cover with hot soap and water, dish soap is good because it is made to break down oils.

8: Rinse.

9: Mask off the areas you do not want paint on, CCV orifices, oil fill hole, etc.

10: Begin painting. I used High temp black paint, Use whatever you want but remember that it will get pretty hot (2-300*) I recommend Lots of coats. Allow to dry.

11: Begin installing the gasket, the instructions that came with my Felpro gasket recommended supergluing it to the valve cover in a few spots. I used “Form a Gasket 2″ in a small bead around the perimeter, this will hold it in place while you position the valve cover.

12: Install the valve cover, Mine was a PITA to get back into place but its doable.
Make sure you do not knock the gasket out of place.

13: Torque bolts down. I dont know the exact specs, I just made sure they where tight.

14: You are done. Clean up your tools and enjoy your engine with one less leaky gasket.

Removal and Cleaning of 4.0l IAC

A gunked up IAC is a common problem on the Jeep 4.0l and can cause many problems such as high idle or no idle.

Tools: T-15 Torx, Brake cleaner, Q-tips, Rag/Paper towels.

First, locate your IAC. It is located on the TB to the left of the tps, and has a right-angle plug on it. Later model Jeeps may have it on the back side of the TB also.

Remove the two bolts and take out the IAC

The plunger on mine was gunked up with Carbon/oil. I cleaned it using a piece of paper towel and rubbing alcohol at first, I then used paper towel and brake cleaner.

Next I sprayed down the whole IAC with brake cleaner, let it dry, and did this two more times. Make sure you get as much crap off of it as possible.

While letting the IAC dry, I cleaned the port that it goes into with brake cleaner sprayed onto a q-tip. I went through about 5 before they started coming out slightly clean.  Keep going until there is no more gunk left in the TB port.

Put the IAC back on, and plug it in.
Start the jeep and let it idle for a few minutes. This is just a function check to make sure the IAC is working correctly.

After the quick function check you can drive it as normal. Make sure there are no leaks around the IAC or your high idle will come back.

After this cleaning my old jeep ran much better. The idle dropped to ~800 rpm and stayed there. If this does not fix your high idle problem, some other possibilities are a bad/Misadjusted TPS, or vacuum leaks.