This will allow you to switch your renix jeep from m20x1.5 metric threaded oil filters to SAE threaded oil filters.
Metric oil filters like used on renix jeeps are generally harder to find and lower capacity, Jeeps 91+ use a SAE (standard) threaded oil filter and there is a much larger variety of filters to be used.

Needed:
1″ Wrench or Socket
22mm Deep Socket
Extension
Ratchet
Breaker Bar
Mopar PN 53007563-AB
New Oil Filter
Oil
About an hour of time with the right tools.

1:
Call the jeep dealer a couple days before you want to do this and order PN 53007563-AB.
My dealer had the part there the next day and it cost me 7.10 +tax.

Its always a good idea to make sure stuff fits before you start a project.

2:
Take your oil filter off. You are most likely doing this during an oil change, so drain your oil too.

3:
Time to remove the nipple. Make sure you use the right tools, I tried using a pipe wrench and a pair of vice grips. It didnt work…

This is what I ended up using. Once you have the right tools it comes out pretty easy.

4:
Time to put your new nipple back in, this part is pretty self explanatory.
Make sure you get it in there tight.

5:
Put your new oil filter on, Fill your engine with oil, and be on your way.

© Dylan Maxwell (Emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com) 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Tools needed:
13mm or 1/2″ Wrench
13mm or 1/2″ Socket
Ratchet
RTV
Gasket
Thermostat
Wire Brush

1:
Pull your temp sensor and let some coolant drain, squeeze the top radiator hose to force some more out.

2:
Remove the bolts holding the thermostat housing in. You should be able to get the bottom bolt out without removing the belt.
Pull the thermostat housing off, remove thermostat.

3:
Brush the surfaces to remove any residue.

4:
Put your new thermostat in

5:
Use your RTV and put a small bead around the gasket on both sides. Some say you dont need RTV, but there is a reason Im doing this for the 2nd time in two weeks.
Put the two bolts through the thermostat housing and put your gasket on.

6:
Reinstall the thermostat housing

7:
Refill with antifreeze, until it runs out of the temp sender hole. Put the temp sender back in, squeezing the top hose will dislodge some more air.

8:
Let it run to operating temp and keep the coolant topped up.

9:
You have successfully changed your thermostat, Keep an eye on the coolant for a couple days as more air is bled out of the system.

© Dylan Maxwell (Emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com) 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Tools needed:
13mm or 1/2″ wrench
Screwdriver
Hammer
Piece of pipe (optional, but may be needed)

1:
Remove your shroud. You will have two bolts at the top to remove and it should lift right out.

2:
Start removing the 4 nuts that hold the fan and clutch onto the pulley. Mine were hard to get out, I sprayed it with liquid wrench every couple days and let it go through heat cycles for a week. After this I could easily get them to break loose with a wrench and piece of pipe.
Use a screwdriver jammed between the nuts to keep the pulley from spinning.

3:
After your nuts are taken off the clutch and fan will come off. If it moves a little and then doesnt want to come all the way off the studs, use your screwdriver and hammer.

4:
Remove the 4 bolts that holds the fan to your fan clutch.
Slip, take a slice off of your finger, bleed for the rest of the project.

5:
Remove the fan from the old clutch

6:
Get your new clutch, Compare bolt holes and size. Making sure it will fit.

7:
Install new clutch onto old fan, Make sure the bolts are tight, but dont strip out the aluminum.

8:
Put your fan/clutch back on, the nuts are a PITA to get started but its doable.
Make sure the nuts are tight, I would recommend checking them again after 100 mi.

9:
Put your shroud back on

10:
Take it for a drive, it should sound like a Jet trying to take off now. :)

© Dylan Maxwell (Emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com) 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

84-96 Doorless

Posted: March 20, 2012 in Technical Writeups

Tools needed:
BFH
Dremel or Sawzall
Misc. Prying tools
Lots of “heavy duty” cutting wheels if you use a dremel
Time

1:
Disconnect your door check arm, it should be held in with a roll pin.

2:
Get your dremel or sawzall and cut the bottom of the hinge:

There is also a lip under the hinge bottom. Cut it and bend it out of the way, you can see it here:

3:
After cutting, its time to bang on the hinge and try to pry it off.
Use your prying tools (cheap screwdrivers in my case) to pry the bottom of the hinge off.

4:
More banging, Prying, Banging, Swearing, sweating, bleeding and almost crying. Eventually you will get the bottom of the hinge off.

5:
Repeat for all the other hinges.
You may run into some bottoms that bring the pin with them. If so, use your dremel/sawzall and cut it off at the very end. Then pound that mofo back where it belongs, in the top hinge. It should be the perfect length, too.

Pounded back in:

6:
Take your kick panels off and unplug everything that goes to the doors:



7:
There is a Grommet on the inside, use your screwdriver and push it out. PUll your wires through, you will end up like this:

8:
Lift the door off. They will be hard. If you have a friend around to help you, tell them to get off their lazy ass and lift.
Repeat for all doors.

8:
Drill/Ream out the hole a little so the pins will slide in easier. I also cleaned up the pins with some 220grit sandpaper till they were shiny, and coated them in grease.

9:
In most states you are required to have two mirrors, one on the drivers side.
I bought this “clamp on blindspot mirror” from Oreillys for 15 bucks and it works good.

10:
You now have a doorless Cherokee, go enjoy it.

© Dylan Maxwell (Emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com) 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

87-96 TC Lockup Switch

Posted: February 28, 2012 in Technical Writeups

Needed:
Two 3a diodes, 1N5402
Philips Screwdriver
14ga wire, THNN or standard rubber insulation. Red, it is carrying 12v+
Heavy duty switch
Fuse holder, 10a fuse. Inline style for glass fuse is the smallest/least bulky.
Misc wire connectors, male spade, etc.
Soldering iron/solder if you have it (highly recommended)
Electrical tape or Heatshrink

This switch will allow you to lock up the torque converter any time you want, in any gear you want.
Quick writeup from Greatlakesxj will describe the general advantage to this:

Solenoid 3 is very simple. Put power to it, and the torque converter will lock. (what we did above with the 2nd switch).

As far as the torque convertor Lock goes. Solenoid 3 is unique, in that it only controls torque converter lock functions. Being able to lock up a torque converter awards you with improvements in fuel mileage, a cooler-running transmission, less cabin noise from the tranny, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, it has the ability to multiply torque from the engine.. It’s in essance like having one more gear.

Although it’s possible to lock the torque convertor in EVERY ratio, it really only works consistently in 2nd, 3rd, and OD. Anyways, Locking it in 1st is pretty much worthless, and is not too good for the torque convertor.

When you come to a stop, either the torque convertor unlocks itself (by nature of how the hydraulic plumbing works) or it will bang a bit, and then stalls the motor. I’d just flip the switch and not worry about it.

NOW, giving it to much throttle with the torque convertor locked will give you a quick wake-up call. The torque convertor lock is not intended to handle full engine torque (remember where your peak torque occurs, fairly low) and it will give you a quick jolt if you forget to unlock before feeding too much throttle. Besides, the torque converter is your friend, it multiplies torque output in exchange for higher engine RPM, so only lock up when you know you don’t need much “oomph”.

Also, The TCU is programmed to force torque convertor lockup when engine RPMS’s are above a certain point (not sure exactly what RPM though?), and you’re at wide open throttle (WOT). Why? easy, top speed. The AW4′s torque convertor has a very high stall speed (translates to high torque multiplication factor, and higher RPM off the line). If you allow 2500rpm of stall, that means the transmission’s input shaft speed will be quite a few RPMs lower than crankshaft speed when you’re under one “quick launch runs”. At WOT, you’re going down the highway at 75, and the torque multiplication factor really isn’t required, thus you need more tranny RPMs.

And lastly, remember how I said the torque convertor lockup mechanism wouldn’t handle full engine torque? Well, when you’re screaming down the highway at WOT, engine RPMs are usually well above the engine’s peak torque point (by nature) it’s not developing peak torque output (although it may be generating peak HP). Locking the torque convertor here doesn’t put it in jeopardy, but it does eliminate slippage that may be costing you MPH and/or MPG. (and we all know with big tires and a lift we need all the MPG we can get!).

1: Remove screws and lower bottom dash panel

2: Locate TCU, it is on the passenger side, steel box with a harness going to it right under the glovebox. Hard to miss

3: Unplug the tcu harness and peal about 6″ of the tape away

4: Find pin c14 on the connector, It should be a white wire with a black trace

5: Cut c14, leaving enough room on the harness side to strip and work with the wire. (room for error if you have to cut it)

6: Put your first diode on the TCU side of your cut wire. Remember that the band marks the “cathode” (ground) side, so you want the band downstream of the tcu plug. If you have an iron I recommend soldering and heatshrinking it. If you dont, I used a butt connector.

7: This part is a little tricky since youre using 2 diodes. You need the first diode inline with the white/black wire, the second will be inline with your 12v coming from the switch.
The diodes are needed so that the TCU does not get feedback voltage going into it when it shouldnt, and your wire going to the switch isnt powered when the TCU locks the converter.
So, what I did was connect the diode inline with the white/black wire with butt connectors, As you can see coming from the harness here:

I then cut this wire again, farther down from the first diode, and spliced the 12v wire and second diode in. Remember that the diode band will be on the OPPOSITE side of the power source.

8: You are done with the harness side, so wrap it all up in tape like it was from the factory and cover any bare wire. Remember this is carrying battery voltage.

9: Bring your wire over to wherever you are mounting your switch.
I put mine in the bottom dash panel by my left knee, so I had to drill a hole and mount the switch.
Connect your wire from the tcu harness to the switch.

10: Find some power.
I had an open spot in my fuse box marked “Acc” that would run ~12.36v with the ignition on, perfect.
I used a male spade and hooked it up, this is where you will put your fuse holder and 10a inline fuse.

11: Recap:
You should now have your switch hooked up, Power on one side coming from somewhere (fusebox in my case) and the other side ran to the TCU harness.
You should have a diode inline with this wire.
You should have another diode inline with the white/black c14 wire.
Your switch should be mounted.
Your wiring should be cleaned up and taped up.
Your TCU harness should be plugged back in if you unplugged it.

12: Put your bottom dash panel back on.

13: Go for a ride.
I do not turn it on until I am above 25mph. You should be around 1000rpm at 35mph.

© Dylan Maxwell (Emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com) 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

The 89 Cherokee

Posted: December 28, 2011 in Build

Saturday, 10/8/11:
Bought it for 1900 under the impression that it was “rust free”
Drove it 45mi home.
Came with 31s on ugly aluminum rims. Will be selling rims and keeping tires.
Has 96 doors on it, bedlined bottom, was originally black and the spraypaint is pealing…
Warranty manual says it came from Georgia in 88 with 92 miles on it…






Sunday 10/9/11:
Pulled Buzzer, put on steering stabilizer, oil pressure sender, oxygen sensor (old one was missing 1″ of ceramic), fixed “pcv”. Found a reman sticker on engine.
Pulled carpet, found rust.





Monday 10/10/11:
Cut out rust, tried welding in new piece to find out that my welder just burns through. Will have to pay someone.
Put in new battery and terminals. $110.
Drove it some more, Decided rear brakes are SHOT.
If youre wondering about pulling the carpet, yes it is loud as hell. Sounds like you have windows open or the hatch is open. But, Id gladly take that to find rust early and keep it from coming back.



Tuesday 10/11/11:
All day project.

Pulled radiator out of green jeep, put HO thermostat housing on renix. Used HO heater lines on renix.
Hooked up trans cooler, AFTER in-radiator “cooler”.
FYI: A straight piece of alu. “fuel injection line” will work in here, so you can run a line to cooler…

Bolted radiator in, header panel not in yet. Started filling radiator and the fricking thermostat housing gasket leaks. Grr.

Wednesday 10/12/11:
Got new thermostat gasket, installed with RTV
Finished putting header panel back on.
Changed Oil. (6.5 qts)
Removed airbox restriction.
Drove it. (brakes still suck)

Lost some transmission fluid, will add tomorrow…
Friends dad is going to look at my rear brakes tomorrow, It sounds almost like the shoes are loose and bouncing/scraping around in there..




Also got my build sheet today:

*Q7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats
ALR ST Value Group
APAS Monotone Paint
AWHA Power Equipment Group
BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
BKPS 10×2.5 Rear Drum Brakes
CACP Low Back Bucket Seats
CDBS Reclining Front Seats
CKBS Floor Carpet
CKNP Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTP Cargo Tie Down Loops
CKVS MOPAR Third Row Cargo Bins w/Table
CLES Front & Rear Floor Mats
CSAS Spare Tire Cover
CSCS Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGSS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
DHSS Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever
DJHS 230MM Front Axle
DMDS 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
DRJS 175MM Rear Axle
EAAC All Engines
GACS Tinted Glass Windows
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GECS Front Left Side Sliding Window
GEDS Tinted Rr Drs/Qtr/Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNBS Driver Side Illuminated Sun Visor
GRBP Left Mirror
GSBP Right Convex Mirror
GTBS Power Heated Mirrors
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
HAAA Air Conditioning
HGAS Hood Insulation
JAAS Instrument Panel
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JBES Instr. Panel Diamond Weave Bezel
JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer
JGBS Digital Clock
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAS Cigar Lighter
JKBS Inst Panel Mounted Hood Release
JPAP Power Windows
JPBP Power Locks
LAFS Key in Ign/Seat Belt Warning Buzzer
LAJS Headlamps On Warning Chimes
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LBDS Ash Tray Lamp
LBES Cigar Lighter
LCDS Map/Dome Reading Lamps
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LDHS U/Hood, Removable/Rechargeable Lamp
LHDS Headlamp Off Time Delay
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
LNJA Fog Lamps
MB3S Body Color/Bright Front Fascia
MB7S Bright Rear Bumper w/Accent Color
MCAS Front Bumper Guards
MCBS Rear Bumper Guards
MDA Front License Plate Bracket
MFMS Black/Bright Grille
MHBS Bright Windshield Moldings
MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert
MMGS Belt Moldings
MTAS Rear Fascia Skid Plate Applique
MWAS Roof Rack
NAAS Federal Emissions
NBKS EVAP Control System
NDAS Catalytic Converter
NFAS 20 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHMA Speed Control
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RAFA AM/FM Cassette Radio
RCDP 4 Speakers
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCGS Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers
SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers
SUA Tilt Steering Column
TAAC All Tires
TBCS Compact Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TMWA P215/75R15 OWL All Terrain Tires
WJMS 15X7.0 Chrome Wheels
XFAS -35F Protection Anti-Freeze
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Our records indicate that the following recall campaign(s) have not been
performed by an authorized dealer:

RECALL: 733
DESCRIPTION: BRAKE PEDAL SHIFT INTERLOCK
TYPE: WARRANTY
DATE ISSUED: 09/08/1997
STATUS: INCOMPLETE

We suggest that you contact your local authorized dealer to make
arrangements for an inspection and, if necessary, corrective action at
no charge to you.

Please take a copy of this message with you at the time of service to
aid the process.

Although not required, it is recommended to bring a copy of the recall
notification with you to your dealer’s service department when you bring
your vehicle in for this service.

Thanks again for your email, have a great day.

Sincerely,

Alex

Customer Service Representative
Jeep Customer Assistance Center

Wednesday 10/12/11 Continued:
Drove it after putting in “New” Radiator. Still dont have an overflow bottle mounted, using a gatorade bottle.
Temp stays Right above 210 no matter what… I dont get it. Tstat is new. 50/50 coolant mix, etc. Let it idle for about 20 mins.
How long does an open system take to “burp”? Do I still have to pull the temp sender at the back of head like the closed system?
Also has typical Renix “low oil pressure” at idle. Around 40+ psi driving though.

Thursday 10/13/11:
Bled a little air out of the cooling system, I think theres still more trapped. Still running at 210 no matter what…
Changed trans fluid, I think it shifts a little better now.
Drove it. Kinda funny watching the oil pressure gauge, when it locks up at 45 it drops from 40+ psi to ~25.

Got rear brakes looked at. Drivers side was way out of adjustment, passengers side needed springs and an adjuster kit. Had parts floating around in the bottom of the drum.

Also, I have super slow wipers…

Cold Start:

It has a pretty good tick when its cold, but when it warms up it goes away.

10/23/11:
236651 mi:
Fuel filter, spark plugs, miss after test drive, refused to start after. Cleaned coil contacts, reinstalled and it started. Did not test drive.
~236450 mi: Oil change.

10/31/11
Found a disconnected line on that stupid “vacuum block”, put the old autolites in it just for the hell of it, drove it. Still missing, was idling at 600rpm today. I think my TPS Is shot, if I tested correctly it is reading full throttle at idle.
The EGR valve works, if you pull the plunger back it instantly dies. One of these days I need to pull all the vacuum lines and redo them.
Going back to work tomorrow, so I can dump more money into it…

Tire chirp at 15mph surprised me…

11-07-2011
I put a new Napa/Echlin TPS on it, adjusted to .85 (input was exactly 5v) and changed the coil ICM for different ones.

Still missing at idle and is pissing me off… Runs perfect off idle, see youtube comparison (1000rpm vs 700).
I have a Whistling vacuum leak from 35-45mph, it goes away after lockup. My no1 injector oring (bottom) leaks pretty good so Im thinking thats what it is.
15mpg to work and back, 5 stop lights and 35-55-35-30 mph zones.

11/8/11
Couple days ago I put the rear seat out of my 97 in… Its not totally done yet, I need to make some kind of pin for the drivers side. The 97 uses bolts on both sides, the 89 uses a bolt on the passengers side and a pin on the drivers.

My CC doesnt work, and I see that it is missing a vacuum line on the actuator. Im kinda afraid to hook it up, thinking maybe its unhooked for a reason…


12/4/11
Not much to update.
Put in the 19lb injectors and almost lit the jeep on fire, havent gotten any MPG numbers yet. Still has the miss, I still hear a vacuum leak somewhere but am not sure where.

Getting front brake pads, ujoints and motor mounts soon:

Also getting OFA orings, and a SAE nipple, as soon as I figure out the part numbers.

I dont remember If Ive posted this earlier, but these are the plans. Its my DD, and pry wont see much wheeling at all.
Axles: 30 and 29sp 8.25 out of the 97. Or 30/8.25 out of a 97+ 4banger if I can find them.
Tcase: 242 if I can find one in 21sp.
Lift: 2-3″
Exhaust: Glasspack
Some kind of opened up intake.
Tires: 31″
Fenders cut like my old jeep:

Misc: Ignition box, A pillar gauge pod, Trans temp and vacuum gauge, Bedlined floors, Bedlined rear quarters, lower quarter guards, and more…

1/1/12
238429 Mi
Oil Change
Oil Filter Adapter Orings
Drivers side Ujoint
Front Brake Pads
Front flex lines
Motor mounts

© Dylan Maxwell (Emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com) 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Have OBA, A winch, or would just like a higher idle for other purposes? Here is the mod for you.
The “Extended Idle” switch was an option on the police issue Cherokees. It is said to be there to kick up alternator output for high demand things such as lights and AC, and to keep the cooling system running a little quicker.

This mod is very simple, and if you have your stuff together it will only take about half an hour.
This Writeup will not have many pictures, since many people will have different places to put their switches.

Required tools: Electrical tape, Philips Screwdriver, Wiretap Connector, Wire, Switch, Dremel or something to cut the Dash.
1: Pull the first plug on the ECU, it is the black one, furthest to the left.

2: Find Pin A12. It is the 2nd row down, on the left. It should be a gray wire, if you have a 97.

3: Cut the electrical tape wrapping and get the gray A12 wire by itself.

4: Use your wiretap connector to splice in your wire:

5: Run your wire into the passenger compartment. There is a hole that the hood release cable comes out of. This is what I used.

6: Pull your wire into the jeep and decide where you want your switch. I decided to mount mine along with the other switches in the dash.

7: Cut your panel where you want the switch. Be sure to get the dimensions correct, you dont want a big ugly hole. Dremel works good for this, but be careful.

7: Hook the wire from the ECU to one side of your switch.

8: Hook the other side of your switch to a ground source. I used a wire to the Cigarette lighter ground.

9: Insert switch, Put Dash back together.

10: Test it out. Start your jeep and flip the switch. Your idle should increase to ~1000 RPM and stay there until the switch is turned back off.

 

© Dylan Maxwell (Emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com) 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.